วันอาทิตย์ที่ 31 สิงหาคม พ.ศ. 2551

Indian Travels 2005 - Delhi - New And Old

We start with the India Gate, a 42 metre high archway, built in memory of the Indian soldiers who gave their lives in World War I and under which burns an eternal flame. The archway is built in a large park area surrounded by lawns and is a popular venue for family picnics in the cool of the evening.

From the India Gate, up the wide boulevard which contrasts starkly with the narrow populous streets of Old Delhi, to the Government and Parliament buildings. Between these, at the head of the avenue, is the magnificent sandstone and marble residence of India's president, Government House (formerly the Viceroy's palace). We can't go in, so just take pictures from the outside.

All this sightseeing has made us hungry and rumbling stomachs indicate that it's lunchtime. Our guide takes us to a small local restaurant gabbles at the owner and leaves us there. However, we needn't have worried. Like most Indians, the owner and waiters all speak good English and the. Cold beer is very welcome and the seek kebab and naan bread delicious.

On the dot of the appointed hour, our driver reappears and whisks us off into the traffic once more. This time to the Tomb of Humayan, the second Mogul Emperor. This monument was built by Humayan's widow, Haji Begum and was the inspiration for the Taj Mahal, being set on a raised terrace in peaceful gardens. However, Humayan's Tomb is constructed of brown and red sandstone, trimmed with white marble, rather than the bright white marble of the Taj, but the huge dome is nearly as impressive and the four octagonal kiosks above finely wrought archways make this the first piece of truly noteworthy Mogul architecture.

Our next stop is the Qutb Minar, a 73 metre tall of red and gold sandstone, symbolises Islam's growing influence in India during the 12th Century and is decorated with beautifully carved balconies.

The muezzin called the faithful to prayer from the top of the Qutb Minar to the Quwwat-u'l-Islam-Masjid mosque, which is now a ruin. This mosque was built from the remains of 27 Hindu and Jain temples, which the Hindus were themselves forced to demolish using their own elephants.

In the courtyard of the mosque is 7 metre high iron pillar, according to its inscription, from the 4th Century. No-one seems to know where it came from but it is a monument to the Hindu God, Vishnu and as such, if you can stand with your back against it and touch your hands behind it, you will have good luck. Unfortunately, for some unwary tourists, the opposite was true as while engaged in trying to make their arms meet behind the pillar, sneak thieves were making off with their valuables. The pillar is now surrounded by a small fence to prevent people being laid open to that particular con.

Our day finished with a visit to a Sikh temple. Following our guide's example, we gave our shoes into the care of a guardian outside, washed our hands and entered what appeared to be a gaily decorated family party. The "altar", for want of a better word was directly opposite the entrance but sideways on and for a coin, one could take a pinch of an ash-like substance to mark ones forehead or have a holy man do it. However, the major part of the temple was taken up with people sitting on the floor counting piles and piles of coins, apparently the donations for a period of time and the buzz of conversation reminded me that the Indians, seemingly of any religion, consider their temples to be as much a meeting place as a place of worship.

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Travel

[tags]travel,delhi,new delhi,old delhi,traveling in delhi,vacation delhi,british raj[/tags]

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